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FEATURED MEMBER


Andrea Hoover

 

Andrea Hoover

Welcome to "A Stitch n' Time". Let us ‘sew’ into your life! "A Stitch n' Time", a licensed, taxable business venue, officially opened its doors on November 5, 2013. My name is Andrea Hoover, the Sole owner, and happy worker bee of this company. I cannot wait to announce our 5-year anniversary this year, then maybe the 10-year anniversary and eventually... announce the 50th anniversary at some time down the road. 

A Stitch n' Time is a professional service/trade that can alter, tailor, repair, remake, design, custom build and instruct its customers on ready-to-wear, custom made garments and household goods. In a nutshell, I sew, repair or recreate ready-to wear clothing, teach the public how to use and troubleshoot their own sewing machines, and design and build whatever dream floats through my customer's heads. I am only able to accomplish what I do at my job because of the degree, a BFA in Theatre Production with an emphasis in Costume Design and Construction, I received at Pennsylvania State University in 1999 and God's good Grace. Currently, A Stitch n' Time has run out of room at our little cottage. My sewing room runs the length of the back of our rental house, the fitting room doubles as our laundry room, the kitchen table doubles as my cutting table and wedding prep table, the guest bedroom recently housed 12 wedding gowns and a portion of the living room has become the office. I currently have 1 apprentice and 1 full-time employee.

As for ASDP… let’s start at the very beginning, it is an integral part of my business. I searched high and low to find a professional organization in which I could stay abreast of the current trends in alteration techniques and sewing. I found ASDP, 4 years ago, through the Threads Magazine, contacted the ASDP website and started going to Chapter meetings in Baltimore. I cannot say enough about how beneficial the membership, the learning and the comradery has been for my business and I. Currently, I am the Baltimore Chapter’s secretary. Also, through ASDP, I acquired a Dress Maker I certificate and attended my first conference in Florida with one of my apprentices. This year I was awarded a scholarship toward an MAS. I plan on starting my MAS this August and look forward to all the continued learning. ASDP has saved me from construction problems, helped me find resources and even helped me fend off potential business scammers. I just cannot say enough about its benefits.

 


 

 PREVIOUSLY FEATURED MEMBERS

 

Sherry Sentipal Snyder

 

Sherry Sentipal Snyder

Sewing and handcrafts have been a part of my life since age 7. I earned a B.S. in Home Economics from Seton Hill College (now University) in Greensburg, PA, where I focused on merchandising. Early in my career, I managed both a JoAnn fabrics and a Piece Goods Shop. After moving to Augusta, GA in 1983, as a newlywed, I was delighted to see children in beautiful hand smocked clothes. I took a class, made a nightgown for myself and continued learning. This new skill launched a sewing business when I was pregnant with my daughter. “Suit Yourself” was chosen, as I love tailoring and helping professional women find nice suits. After recognizing the South’s penchant for dances, formals were added to my business.

Once my daughter was born, the smocking creativity exploded- Meghan was the best dressed girl! We relocated to Frederick, MD where I had my twin boys, bringing a new opportunity for smocked boys’ clothes. All of the children’s heirloom clothing is saved for the next generation. I taught sewing and smocking lessons at a local fabric shop, also doing ordering and merchandising for the owners. The popularity of American Girl dolls amongst my daughters’ friends launched a new business, “Sew Special,” with a friend, concentrating on new ideas and classic baby hats. Once my children were grown, I went on to work in sales in the arts and crafts world. As online merchandisers changed the business, I refocused on my true passion of heirloom children’s clothing and launched a new business, Custom Creative LLC.

My love for smocking is a part of my work days now. I was looking for a professional organization to brainstorm with other creative people. I found ASDP and it has been the right fit. The Baltimore chapter is active and has interesting programs and meetings. I look forward to learning and growing as part of this wonderful group.

 

 

April Jackson

 

April JacksonIn 1987 I was 20 years old and trying to decide what to do for a living. I knew I liked to sew but how would I go about learning this skill? What type of work would there be for someone with sewing skills? It was suggested to me to speak with one of the tailors working in the town where I lived and see if they would be willing to have me apprentice with them to learn their trade. At this time, I was unaware that people actually paid other people to sew their clothes for them! I did find a tailor who took me on as an apprentice at that time. After one full year of apprenticeship, fifteen years of self-employment, two years in a custom dress shop, 9 years in a draperies establishment, 4 years at an alterations store and one year at a bridal shop I have all the knowledge and skills of a Master Alterations Specialist.

There was no condensed, direct route that taught all the alterations and repairs you would need to know to be and Alterations Specialist. Years of apprenticeship, training and on-the-job experience was how one would acquire skills in the sewing trade.

Currently I am living in London, Ontario with my husband, Scott and I have two children, Michael (20) and Rose (18). I own a sewing business, Jackson Sewing and Academy, but my career “baby” is my sewing school, Jackson Sewing Academy. With my online sewing school, I am creating an extensive, customizable course so you can learn the skills needed to become an Alterations Specialist. Included are step-by-step, easy to follow video demonstrating every alteration and/or repair one would need to know to work in this field, along with printable, easy to understand text and images covering many other topics beneficial to this trade. Individuals can learn at their own pace, they can learn everything there is to know to run their own full-service alterations business or just the skills needed to work in a specific area of retail clothing.

I had decided to join the ASDP because of the certification programs. Students who complete my course can acquire certification and thus recognition for their skills.

 Creating a course like this has been a dream of mine for 25 years and I am thrilled to finally see it come to life!

 

Claire Shaeffer

 

Claire ShaefferAn acrobat in her youth, Claire enrolled in the circus curriculum at Florida State University but left with a "MRS" degree. Though quite thin, she had developed broad shoulders through acrobatics — a factor that ultimately steered her life in another direction. Finding it difficult to find clothes that fit, she turned to sewing her own wardrobe, but wanted more than commercial patterns offered. “I went back to school to learn how to make my own patterns,” she says. "I was under the misconception that once I had a basic block I could make patterns with few, if any, fitting problems."

She studied professional construction techniques which included those used in haute couture as well as inexpensive mass production. Along the way, she developed a passion for collecting and amassed an impressive collection of designer clothes which she uses for research. Although the focus of the collection has always been construction, a few garments have been loaned for museum exhibitions.

Claire taught a variety of beginning and advanced construction courses at College of the Desert for 22 years. As a classroom instructor, she learned what frustrated students most, what they really wanted to learn, and how to help them solve problems on their own. Even simple problems such as how the sewing machine works and how to solve stitching problems had not been addressed in the mid-seventies.

The author of more than 20 books and videos including “Couture Sewing Techniques” and the Couture Sewing Series of books with videos which focus on Chanel techniques, Claire designs the Custom Couture Collection for Vogue Patterns and is a frequent contributor to Vogue Pattern Magazine and Threads. She is currently writing a college textbook on Couture Tailoring for Laurence King Publication.

Claire has written extensively about Chanel and the Chanel garments. Even though she has never visited the Chanel ateliers, her examination of the designs and knowledge of haute couture construction have uncovered several Chanel secrets. One of the first was that Chanel used a faux bound buttonhole under the thread buttonhole instead of a real bound buttonhole which is much more difficult to sew.

Claire Shaeffer working Claire Shaeffer

 

Claire’s motto is “I demystify couture;” but she can also explain how garments are made at all price points from the cheapest to the most expensive. According to Claire, her education at a trade-technical school established a foundation on which she could build by visiting designer workrooms, industry factories, and museum collections, but the most important resource has been her personal collection which allows her to peek under the linings. She is considering the value of workshops which focus on examining some of the garments in her collection.

One of only a handful of educators who have received both the PACC Lifetime Achievement Award and the American Sewing Guild Hall of Fame Award, Claire is particularly proud of the recognition by her professional colleagues.

Claire enjoys sharing the knowledge she has gained through her personal studies, “Much of what I've learned is not new, but how to apply everyday techniques in a different way. It’s very rewarding to see people improve their skills and expand their knowledge.” 

 

Addie Scheibe

 

Addie ScheibeSurrounded by family who loved to sew and were professionals in the field, it is not surprising the business, Custom Alterations was born. Addie’s mother, Betty is a very processioned quilter and her Grandmother, Mildred, now deceased, was a sewing instructor for Sears Roebuck in Cincinnati, Ohio for over 25 years. Many of Addie’s sewing skills were formed from these two ladies and over time she developed many of her own skills in the alterations field.

Custom Alterations started in the mid 80’s by appointment only. Over time as the business grew, a walk in establishment was formed, around 17 years ago, and is in place today. Custom Alterations preforms many different tasks from coat zipper replacements, blue jean alterations, hems, gown and men’s suit alterations to name a few. Other unusual jobs have been 6 foot zippers in cello cases, re construction on antique tractor umbrellas and the occasional horse blanket repairs. For the most part you name it we have most likely preformed the task.

Custom embroidery was introduced into the shop about 8 years ago. We Target the small business sector and individual orders that many of the larger embroidery establishments just do not want or cannot handle.

Married with 2 grown children and 2 grandchildren, she stays busy outside of the business. Her family runs and operates The Ro-La-Sue Dairy Farms in Wayne Country, Wooster, Ohio, milking between 250 and 265 cows using Lely Robotic Systems. Addie still heads down to the barn almost every morning to chase cows between 4 and 4:30 a.m. Then returns home, takes a small break and gets ready to open her business.

Addie is a member of the Association of Sewing Design Professionals (ASDP), The American Sewing Guild (ASG) and The Wayne County Fiber Arts Guild of Wooster. She holds a recently acquired Certificate of Completion for custom skirt pattern drafting and is currently enrolled in a custom slacks drafting course.

Addie also holds a degree from the Ohio State University’s Agricultural Technical Institute in Marketing Management Technologies and Floral Design. She is a published author of Floral Inspirations, Inspiration durch Blumen, and holds a National Certified Floral Designer Certificate from The Ohio and Michigan Floral Association. She is also a member of OFAA and CFAA Associations.

 

Erin Retelle

 

Erin RetelleErin has been sewing more or less all her life. She began designing and sewing clothing for her dolls as a child, and then moved on to full-sized fashions after learning to use a sewing machine. She’s been her friends’ go-to gal for custom costumes and outfits, mending and alterations since her high school and college days. 

After moving to Boise in 2004, she picked up some more advanced design and construction techniques from local instructors, one of whom was Barbie McCormick, another career sewist and ASDP member.

Over the next several years, Erin had fallen into helping design and build costumes for the ballroom dance community she is a part of. She worked mainly for the joy of seeing her creations on the dance floor, as well as a few dinners and bottles of wine. When the economy crashed in 2008, and she was laid off from the engineering firm where she was working as geologist, Erin pivoted to an entirely new career in sewing. With Barbie’s help and mentorship and the encouragement of the dance community, Erin began teaching sewing classes, making dance costumes she was paid actual money for, and doing alterations. sewBoise was born!

Since that time, sewBoise has expanded twice and Erin now employs 9 people in her Boise shop.

Erin comes from a family of educators, and is no exception, many have described her as an exceptional teacher. She thoroughly enjoys teaching, learning and sharing sewing tricks with others.

In 2010, Erin joined the Association of Design and Sewing Professionals and began participating in the organization's annual educational conference where she continues to expand her sewing and design skill set, improve her teaching techniques and share her work. 

Being an engaged business owner and asset to her community is central to Erin's plans. She is pursuing the Executive MBA degree at Boise State University, graduating in spring of 2018, and was one of the Idaho Business Review's honorees for the Accomplished Under 40 Award in 2016 (see page 31).

Erin teaches beginning through intermediate-plus students, including teens and pre-teens. Although she only speaks English herself, she is comfortable teaching those whose primary language it isn't. Erin is sewBoise's resident knit and serger expert. She works extensively with the Moulage as well as with commercial patterns, and is always up for a rework of a pattern or existing garment.

Read more about Erin in the press, schedule a private lesson with her, or send her an e-mail.

 

Susan Child

 

Susan ChildI am new to ASDP and am so very glad I joined this Association! I was introduced to ASDP via Rhonda Buss’ blog. I enrolled in my first conference held in Orlando within days of becoming a member. This group is an over-the-top group of lovely, talented ladies that share the same passion as I – my inspiration was on overload when I returned home from conference. My take-away from this conference was “work smarter, not harder” (thanks to Barbie McCormick) and that there are so many members able and willing to help you perfect your talent, become an expert in your field and become successful in your business. 

I am currently the Deputy Director for the Office of State Lands & Investments for the State of Wyoming and still work full time. However, I will be retiring in December, 2018 and plan to begin the next chapter of my life with a custom sewing and alteration business on January 1, 2019 – new year, new chapter. I anticipate that my business will consist of primarily alterations, but am hopeful that I will have custom sewing and design opportunities as well – all options are on the table.

My Mother and Grandmother sewed for me for as long as I can remember. I started sewing at age eight under their tutelage and have continued to “up my game” over the past 50 plus years. Thanks to my Mother and Grandmother, I am obsessed with fit and try to challenge myself with new techniques and complex projects whenever possible. Because I still work full time, I am more of a weekend warrior but do try to incorporate at least one or two “sewcations” each year. I try my best to spend at least 30 minutes a day in my sewing room, be it sewing in a zipper or a couple of seams, cutting out or drafting a pattern or just cleaning up after a weekend project. I find that if I allot myself a minimum of 30 minutes per day I don’t feel too deprived of my passion.

There is absolutely no doubt that I will continue my membership and I am looking forward to future conferences and becoming more involved in ASDP and its mission. I plan to take advantage of the opportunities ASDP provides and enroll in as many conference classes as time will allow. I want further my education and expertise in alteration and sewing techniques, fitting and operating a successful business. I sincerely believe I have found my “peeps” and am looking forward to working with each and every one of you.

 

Jessica Baseler

 

Jessica BaselerI started sewing as a teenager, learning from family members and making everything from quilts to clothing for myself. I attended Iowa State University and graduated with degrees in Marketing and Apparel Merchandising Design and Production. Most of my career to date has been in the insurance industry with my sewing being done on the side for myself, my husband and other family members.

It wasn’t until June 2017 that I started sewing as a business. I actually got into alterations on a whim. I was in my sister’s wedding and needed to get my dress altered so I went to a local seamstress and we started talking about sewing and the business. I have been incredibly fortunate as the conversation with this seamstress ultimately led to an apprenticeship and the creation of my alterations business, Pin Works.

I joined ASDP shortly after starting my business to expand my knowledge by attending conferences and meet others in the business to learn from them. I would highly recommend this organization to others, especially those just starting out as there is so much information to be gained from fellow ASDP members!

Currently I operate Pin Works on nights and weekends while continuing my full-time work in operations at an Insurance agency. I’m not sure what the future holds for me but I look forward to growing my skills in alterations and expanding my clientele.

View Jessica's Facebook Page

  

Nick Abrashi

 

Nick AbrashiI started sewing buttons at my neighbors tailor shop at the of 9 and continued learning sewing throughout grade school and high school. I finished college in 1983 at the University of Zagreb, Croatia (former Yugoslavia). After college I worked in apparel manufacturing as a chief plant operation supervisor. In 1986 I moved to the USA and had a small alteration shop in California and a few years later I joined Nordstrom in their first store in Chicago as a tailor. 

Currently I am Alterations and Tailor Shops regional manager for Nordstrom Central region. I am in charge of Alterations and Tailoring for the full line of stores and Rack stores (an off-price Nordstrom division) . Full line stores have anywhere from 6 up to 22 tailors depending of the store sales volume. Rack stores generally have one or two tailors for each  store. I oversee alteration operations for about 30 stores in Texas, Oklahoma, Tennessee and Louisiana.

I provide daily support and coaching to shop managers in executing company goals and initiatives. I monitor, review and compare results. I work on people development, coaching, teaching and training shop managers. Some of other responsibilities of my job are vendor relation, provide financial planning and execution, provide support for sales strategy and cost analysis, facilitate communications for all levels in the region etc.

I am married and have two kids. My daughter is at the age of 20 and my son 17. I have been working for Nordstrom for the last 26 years. I joined ASDP mostly to do networking and have access to different aspects of the sewing business.


  

Teri Lloyd

 

Teri Lloyd

Teri’s Unique Stitching, LLC
Freelance Costume Stitcher, Costumes, Custom Dressmaking, Alterations, General Sewing, and Instruction
By Teri E. Lloyd

I started sewing at the age of eight using my great grandma’s treadle sewing machine. Living on a dairy farm I belonged to the 4H club and we were to submit something we sewed for the county fair in Wisconsin. My mother decided that my first project would be a plaid lined jumper. Oh, did I cry over that and I didn’t sew again with plaid fabric till 2011 when I started stitching as a Costume Shop Assistant for a local dinner theatre. But the good news is I got a blue ribbon that I treasure to this day.

During the late 80’s and early 90’s I was a sewing assistant for L. Karen Odam, Dos De Tejas where I tested her patterns, proof read and edited the instructions, created samples for shows and pattern photos. In 1996, Karen and Dos De Tejas patterns were selected for the National New Home Institute Fashion Show and I got to sew all the clothes for this using their machines. Also in the 80’s and 90’s I was a DecoArt Helping Artist, teaching decorative painters how to use DecoArt products as well as teaching silk painting classes including a basic one-time class on TV.

In 1995 after moving from Texas to PA I started a home-based alterations and custom dressmaking. In 2010, I moved back to my home town in WI started my business there and then my life changed.

Welcome to my crazy life. Really, it’s crazy as a Freelance Costume Stitcher, I usually work away from home 6 days a week, 10 hours a day minimum and anywhere from two days to weeks/months. I get to travel around the United States and internationally having sewn in Canada, Poland and China. I am blessed to have sewn costumes for Disney On Ice, Disney Live, Marvel Universe Live, Sesame Street, Radio City Rockettes, Hamilton the Broadway Musical and the very last Ringling Brothers & Barnum and Bailey Circus, to name a few. In 2015, I spent time in NYC sewing costumes for Madonna’s Living for Love Music Video, her costumes for her Rebel Heart tour as the head seamstress and went on tour with her for three cities.

When I am at home I sew costumes for the Fireside Theatre, work at a local quilt shop teaching classes and make cosplay costumes for Comic Con (this picture is my Bioshock Infinite cosplay costumes on stage for judging at the 2016 Wizard World Chicago Comic Con).

Costumes created by Teri

I have been a member of ASDP since 2008 though I had one year off. I came back because I missed the comradery of the members and all the information that is shared to help us become better in our field.


  

Liza Roper

 

Liza Roper and husbandMy name is Liza Roper from Kingston, Pa and I have been the owner/operator of Alterations by Liza in the same store front location for 26 years and have loved it ever since!

I began sewing at a very young age when my mother would give me scraps of fabric as she sewed for me and my brothers and sisters. I was five and she hesitated to allow me to use the sewing machine but I was very persistent and finally sent me for lessons when I was eight years old.

I earned a bachelor of science degree in Fashion Design / Retail Management from Marywood University and upon graduating I pursued a career in retail management but my love of sewing never faded.

A position opened in a popular bridal shop and I became their seamstress and I loved working with special occasion and bridal alterations so much that I decided to expand and open my own tailor shop to help a wider variety of people and do a variety of alterations. I still specialize in formal alterations, along with hand beading,but do various types of alterations on all clothing. I have brides, brides maids, and prom gowns brought to me from as far as Montana, New Jersey, and New York that see my work on my website and Facebook page. I'm so grateful to have such wonderful customers who follow me.

I recently won Best Tailor from a local newspaper, The Times Leader. Here I am pictured with my husband Ben at the awards ceremony.


 

Angela Wolf

 

Angela WolfAngela Wolf is the anchor of the PBS series It’s Sew Easy, Author of How to Start a Home-based Fashion Design Business, founder of Angela Wolf Pattern CollectionTM, hosts a Facebook live show Behind the Scenes, and YouTube series Entrepreneur Insight. She is a frequent contributor to both Threads and SewStylish magazines, blogger, and brand ambassador for Brother International and Daylight Company. Angela has been a member of ASDP since 2008, a board member for MSDP, and brand ambassador for Brother International and Daylight Company.
 
Angela started sewing at a young age and continued to design women’s apparel all through college. With an entrepreneurial spirit and passion for fashion and sewing, she launched and ran a successful custom apparel and alteration business for over 18 years.  With the success of It’s Sew Easy tv, Angela changed her business focus toward the home sewer and now spends much of her time consulting, speaking, and teaching all over the country.  She is the winner of 2008 Passion for Fashion, 2012 American Sewing Expo’s teacher of year, and in 2016 received the Outstanding Industry Contribution award.  When she is not sewing, you will find her fishing on Lake Michigan or in the Florida Keys with her husband Winn, on the Win-n-Angel!
 
“I have been a member of ASDP since 2008 and find this group to be such an asset. I would recommend to anyone able to attend a conference, GO! After attending the annual conference in Illinois 2 years in a row, it was amazing to connect with fellow designers, patternmakers, and sewing experts. Not only do you leave the conference with new friends, you have had the opportunity to polish your skills and discuss business with others in the same field.  The best part is that you leave with a renewed energy and increased confidence to run and grow your business! Thanks ASDP for everything you offer!”   -- Angela

 

 

Keven Troutman

 

Keven Troutman

Sewing is not my life. But, I recognize it has been a major part of my life. My grandmother let me pretend to sew by giving me a scrap of fabric and a threaded needle that she provided as I sat by her side. Her skills remain unparalleled in my mind, to this day. Sewing was her life. She made matching dresses for my sister and me and my two cousins and my father took great pleasure in documenting them, both from the front and the back, where there was usually a great big bow. My grandmother also made suits for my grandfather, who was the president of a small liberal arts college in Washington state. But it was my mother who taught me how to sew, on her 1937 Singer Featherweight, which I still own.

 

My mother was always a pretty laissez-faire person, not wanting to interfere or shelter me from life's harsh lessons. Case in point: I vividly remember the lavender pique and lavender and multi-colored coordinating pique that was my first complete sewing project. It was a box pleated skirt with a floral vest. At 11, I didn't really have a bust so the darts I sewed formed little points and the pleats in my skirt were askew. When I debuted my masterpiece at school it didn't take long for me to realize that I shouldn't have worn my first sewing project to school. I wasn't really bullied, but neither was I complimented on my new ensemble. Undaunted, I continued to sew. By high school, my mother encouraged me by telling me I could have as many clothes as I could sew. I took her up on the offer, although I'm not sure it was very cost-effective for her.

 

Through college I earned a teaching certificate in home economics. I taught middle school home economics and later I managed a medical office, became a freelance graphic designer, led a state-wide trade association and later, I came back to education as a computer teacher.

 

Keven Troutman DressesAs a retiree, intent on spending my leisure time sewing with a single goal in mind, Now, even older than my grandmother was when I was a child, my skills are nowhere on par with hers. Sewing has been a life-long challenge and I have often been disappointed with my results. In times of frustration, I say to myself. “I will master this skill before I die.” Now, as a new member of ASDP, I feel more confident than ever that I will, with the help of my new mentors and friends, fulfill this single bucket list item.

 

Sue Larson

 

I have been sewing/quilting since I was 8 years old. My grandmother taught me to cut squares by using a paper template pinned to a piece of fabric.  She then showed me how to use the machine and sew the squares together. When I had mastered “straight line” sewing, she helped me sandwich and tie my first quilt.  I do not have that quilt today….last time I saw it, it was thrown in the back of our old Dodge Power Wagon.  But the priceless memories remain.  My mother lovingly stitched almost all my clothes growing up, so sewing came pretty natural to me.  I started making some of my own clothes in Jr. Hi School, and still find time in my busy schedule to stitch a few outfits together now and then.

I have attended many quilting classes and sewing/stitchery workshops and was a part-time student in the Apparel Design program at Art Institute in Portland for five years.  I have entered the Hoffman Challenge in the wearable category three years, and each time my entry was chosen to travel with the trunk shows to quilt expos and festivals around the country. My most recent entry was displayed in the 2013 Hawaii Quilt Guild quilt show.  I have designed craft projects for trade magazines, sewn items for Janome advertising and have been commissioned to construct couture garments.

Over the years I have taught classes in beading, sewing and hand dyeing fabric. I have also lectured at the Hawaii Stitchery and Fibre Arts Guild on several occasions.  

My real passion is design - I always aspired to be an apparel designer.  However, being a single parent I was never able to finish my degree and start my own business as I had always planned to do.  As I wind down toward retirement, I have decided to reinvigorate that dream and complete those last few requirements that stand in the way.  I am enrolled in the Fashion Technology program at Honolulu Community College, and will graduate in 2018, the same year I plan to retire.

In 2012, I developed my first marketable pattern. It is for a little bag that I call the “Olio Bag” (view an image of the Olio Bag; Photo Credit: Carrie Johnson), which means a collection of miscellaneous items, not necessarily related. I named the bag Olio, because you can use it for anything, or a collection of several things.  It resembles a cosmetic bag, and I have several that I use for various items; electronics chargers, small sewing projects and of course make-up.  

I now quilt, sew, bead and design for relaxation and enjoyment, most of the time for family or friends. I joined the Hawaii Quilt Guild in 2007, and the Hawaii Stitchery and Fibre Arts Guild in 2008, shortly after I moved to Hawaii, hoping to find like-minded women and cultivate new friendships.  I have found both in abundance.  I am truly blessed! 

 

Lynne Williams

 

Lynne Williams is a native Californian with 30 years of professional sewing and design experience. She is a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles, majoring in Fashion Design. While in college Lynne worked with in the Fashion industry for American Trim, designing embroidery and appliqué patterns for various fashion houses assisting and overseeing production.

Upon graduation in 1981 she moved into Hollywood and focused her career in Costumes for Theatre and Film where she had the privilege of contributing to: Bill and Ted’s Excellent Adventure, Honey I blew up the Kids, and a Lionel Riche video “Dancing on the Ceiling” to name a few. Lynne also gained experience at this time in clothing and covering animatronics, working with fur and leather, developing “Walk Arounds” for various productions, all this while running a successful porcelain doll clothing business known as “H.H. Pinafore”. with her partner Sue Hammerschmidt. This dynamic team created beautiful reproduction and original clothes for porcelain dolls, developing a line of doll patterns known for their accuracy and detailed instructions.

Since moving to Wisconsin in 1991 her love of horses has inspired her to hone her tailoring skills in the form of traditional riding apparel along with some fun costume pieces.

Diversity has always been Lynne’s forte creating wedding garments to window treatments for her private clientele in Wisconsin. Additionally she provides sample prototypes for DC Comics popular line of Action Figures.

Currently Lynne has joined forces with her husband, former staff sculptor at Disney, Chuck Williams.  Together they create replica costumes from the Batman and Wonder Woman tv show for fans, collectors and cosplay enthusiasts. under the Williams Studio 2 banner.  They have established a vibrant and successful online business selling to clients all over the world from their cabin in the woods.

Lynne also enjoys teaching beginning to advanced sewing skills through Nicolet College in their continuing education division and out of her private studio.

 

 

Annie Barnes

 

Annie Barnes

Annie Barnes has been sewing for more than 50 years, and she has been sewing professionally for about 20 of those years. Annie received a Bachelor of Arts degree in Biology from Jackson State College and Master of Combined Sciences in Biology from University of Mississippi and has served as teacher, science supervisor and assistant principal during her 37 years as an educator.  She retired from her career in education in 2005, and now specializes in custom sewing and alterations. She has made many many wedding dresses and cotillion dresses truly “ready to wear”!

Annie is an active member of ASDP, ASG, Uncommon Threads Quilt Guild, and the Memphis Sewing Guild. Along with her membership in these groups, Annie has contributed her time, talents, and resources to numerous organizations, including LeBonheur Children’s Hospital, Ronald McDonald House and Sewing into Dreams with Stitches of Hope, a charitable organization that supports St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. Annie was named a “Dream Maker” for her work in helping young designers to bring their creations to life in support of St. Jude.  Annie’s sewing skills are also evident in her church, Saint Andrew A.M.E. Her sewing skills are seen in the church’s communion linens, baptismal garments, and a T-shirt quilt she designed to commemorate 20 years of service by the Sisters Ministry. 

In 2016 Annie served as chairman for the Little Dresses for Africa project. She mobilized fellow Beta Epsilon Omega chapter members and community partners to sew more than 623 dresses that will be distributed to villages in Africa. Her leadership was recognized with a certificate of appreciation from Rachel O’Neil, founder of Little Dresses for Africa.

Presently, Annie Barnes is restyling her wedding dress that she wore in 1967 to be worn again on her 50th wedding anniversary!

 

 

 

 

Margaret Fette

 

Margaret FetteMargaret Fette is currently ASDP's Vice President of Communications. She has owned the Tailored Fit, a custom sewing and alteration shop in Bloomington, IN for over 10 years. The Tailored Fit’s focus has been creative solutions for the hard to fit. The Tailored Fit works with both men and women working on tailoring professional clothing, additionally they see a lot of designer bridal gowns for alterations. Recently The Tailored Fit expanded into a 2000 square foot space. The space houses a custom suit display. The Tailored Fit works with Alabaster & Chess of NYC to provide custom suits for her clients. The new location additionally offers sewing class space, space for 5 employees, retail sewing supplies, 4 dressing rooms, and 2000 sq. ft. of a co-working Maker space. 

 

Margaret says "2017 is going to be a wonderful year for The Tailored Fit." In a prior point in her career she worked on Broadway for a year at Carelli Costumes working many shows including Phantom of the Opera, Jekyll & Hyde, and Rent. She has taught at a variety of craft schools including John C. Campbell Folk School and as a visiting lecturer at Indiana University in their fashion design program. 


Margaret Fette • Owner of the Tailored Fit • www.thetailoredfit.com
611 W. 11th St. Suite 2 • Bloomington, In 47404
812-323-2665 • Hours: Monday-Thursday 12-6pm, Friday 3-5pm, and by appointment

 

 

 

 

Madeline Stage

 

Madeline StageDon’t be fooled by my age, I have been sewing for over 20 years! I started out my sewing career by making a horrible two-legged stuffed elephant when I was just 7 years old, and I haven’t stopped sewing since! After years of experimenting and self-teaching, I ended up at Ball State University, where I graduated with a degree in Apparel Design in 2012. I now live in Indianapolis with my husband, Eddie, who puts up with all of my fabric, which is stored in every possible nook and cranny of our one-bedroom apartment.

After a few years in the workforce as a seamstress and pattern designer, I decided to start my business in 2014. My passion for reducing manufacturing waste turned into an Etsy shop by the name of Green Graves, where I sell products made from repurposed fabrics. I have always been the kind of person who hates to throw away even the scraps from my projects, because I believe they still have use. Now, I use that passion as a part of my business: I collect discarded material and scraps from local factories and turn them into new products. My style of products can best be described as whimsical and fun. From Indiana-shaped pillows to quilted tombstones to red winter capes, each piece is unique because the fabrics I find are limited to the discarded fabrics I can get my hands on. I sell these items online, in local shops, and at a few craft shows throughout the year.

As my business has grown, I’ve realized how much I enjoy creating the patterns themselves. I find pattern-making to be a fascinating puzzle, and I’m constantly coming up with new ideas. This, plus the fact that I have always loved inspiring other people to be creative too, has led me to start a growing line of sewing patterns on my website, www.GoheenDesigns.com. I offer my patterns as downloadable PDFs and also in the form of sewing kits with fabric included. I love the kits because they allow me to give new life to even more fabric than what I alone can sew with!

I joined ASDP in 2016 as a part of the Heartland Chapter, and I’m looking forward to becoming more involved in the organization! I’m new to owning my own business, which means I’m constantly learning and growing and changing. I look forward to learning from all of you!

 

 

Edye Sanford

Edye Sanford

Edye Sanford – Designs from the Edge
Your Heart’s Desire in Fabric
http://www.edyesanford.com/

An IT-manager-turned-fashion-designer, Edye Sanford emerged on the Baltimore fashion scene 14 years ago with a collection of children’s hats for the local boutique Oh! Said Rose. The whimsical-yet-practical hats were quickly recognized as Baltimore Magazine’s “Best Kiddie Caps.”  Her line steadily expanded to include retro-inspired, hip clothing and accessories for women, children, men, and the home.  Five years ago, she was thrilled and honored to begin in-depth study of bridal and formalwear under the expert eye of Baltimore’s Best Tailor – and former ASDP national president – Rae Cumbie, allowing Sanford to fulfill clients’ wishes for all kinds of creative garments in even more inventive ways.

Attention-to-detail and originally best describe her work. Recent projects have included repurposing wedding gowns into Christening gowns, making skirts from upholstery fabric for a client who is an interior designer with lots of home dec remnants, and creating a custom wedding gown for the owner of Maryland’s largest organic farm.

Sanford is the president of the Baltimore chapter of ASDP and a certified Eureka! Licensed Pants Professional. She is an active member of numerous community and professional organizations and enjoys volunteering to teach a variety of sewing skills in Baltimore City Public Schools. She lives in the eclectic Hampden neighborhood of Baltimore, MD with her husband, two sons, two very spoiled rescue pugs, and a flock of urban chickens.

 

Christine Kazmerzak     

Christine Kazmerzak

Christine has specialized in bridal work for over 35 years and has more than 40 years of sewing experience.

Christine started sewing as a young girl taught by her mother and grandmother, who was a milliner and tailor herself. Finding her passion in the art of sewing, she continued sewing for herself and family for many years. Soon the word was out of her talents and she took on her first paying customer in 1969.

She studied at Mt. Mary University, the first school in the USA to offer a 4 year fashion design program.

From Mt. Mary she earned a degree in Fashion Design and was trained by both American and European designers.

While there were years of raising her family, she kept her skills fine-tuned. She opened her Sun Prairie Design Studio in 2000. She continues to improve her skill level annually by taking classes to learn new techniques from international designers and instructions from around the country.

Christine has been a member of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals (ASDP) since 2003 and is an active participant of both the local Wisconsin Chapter and National level to help grow the Association.

 

 

Wendy Cettina     

Wendy Cettina

My mother taught me how to sew when I was 8 years old. Both my Grandmothers sewed, and I remember them sewing in their sewing rooms. This is when having a sewing room was very common! I had a doll (similar size to an American Girl doll), I think it came with sewing patterns, and we made clothes for it. My mom made a lot of clothes for me and I remember cutting some out with her and learning the basics such as the importance of carefully pinning the cloth together and ironing every seam.

 

When I went to college, I brought my sewing machine with me. Some stuff I made was kind of wacky, like a shirt from curtains (aka The Sound of Music) and a dress from some random fabric an old boyfriend had used for a toga. I remember I made a drop-waist dress for a dance with these big flowers at the waist. A couple of my roommates wore it to other events after.

 

It wasn’t until after college when I was working for a construction management firm that I began sketching clothes and sewing my own designs, not just straight from patterns I had purchased. I began accumulating fabric and supplies (important for the creative process!) and learning better techniques. This is when I took a class in Baltimore by Sarah Veblen, a professional sewer, national instructor and author. It all clicked for me and the world of sewing and creating whatever I wanted cracked wide open! Since then I’ve taken several design classes from Sarah, Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) and at ASDP conferences. Now, I sew most of my clothes.

 

My business started while I was staying at home with my son. The word spread that I sewed, and people would ask if I would do various projects for them. My business was formed! This year I became a LLC, so my business name is Wendy Cettina Original Designs, LLC. Most of my clients are referrals or repeat clients. I’ve been a member of ASDP for five years and have been on the New Jersey Chapter’s Board serving as 2nd president for about 3 years. I feel that being a member is a wonderful credential and gives another layer of professionalism to my business. I enjoy the variety of my business, a mix of tailoring, original clothing, christening gowns and home decorating items.

Elizabeth Allemong     

I have been a member of ASDP for about 15 years and I am thrilled to be a part of this group of professionals. Belonging to ASDP gives me credentials as a patternmaker and writer. There are other organizations for seamstresses and crafters, but this group is for the masters of their trades.

 

My love affair with patternmaking started accidentally, when a saleslady in a home storage store told me about a wonderful patternmaking class she just took, right here where I live, in Columbus, Ohio. Mrs. Hannah was teaching an American pattern-drafting method at Columbus College of Art and Design (CCAD). She used an old textbook written by Harriet Pepin. We learned how to draft slopers and then how to make sewing patterns. Although I was a little intimidated by the young and talented kids in the class, I studied diligently and with great enthusiasm. It was clear that most of the young students were "artistic" and I was "technical." They would be designers and I would be a patternmaker. I loved this class. What I did not like about this method was that the armhole in the Bodice Front was too large.

 

When the class was over, my sister, who is a fabulous dressmaker, and who still lives in my native Poland, sent me Polish translations of the famous German Muller method. My sister warned me that the instructions were poorly written and full of errors. Those books intrigued me, because the drafting method was so different than the American method, and so I studied them even more diligently. I loved the sleeves in the German method, but I wanted a customized version for various shapes of armholes.

 

Then, I took a private seminar with the drafting teacher for John Klamar in New York City. I learned about his school in an article written in Sew News. The school was closing and I was one of the last students. The pattern drafting method was French and again it was different than the German and American methods. I loved the pants in the French method, but I wanted to adapt the drafting method to individual measurements for a custom fit.

 

Well, then I just had to learn the English drafting method. All that learning took me several years and I was ready to combine the elements I liked in each European method into my own drafting method. I was not happy with the Bodice Front armhole in any of these methods, but I was able to figure out myself how to draft it better.

 

I started to make notes and translated them from English to Polish, so that my sister could review them. I asked her to be brutally honest about my notes. She was. "Make it simpler, make it simpler," she demanded. And so my instructions slowly became clear and easy to follow.

 

I basically wrote those instructions for myself, until my designer-friend urged me to self-publish my notes in a book. Her idea was that there might be other women, perhaps professional dressmakers, interested in drafting slopers using the best elements of the European methods combined in one book. My book would save those women almost 10 years of research and learning. I decided to follow her advice. It took me awhile because I was working during the day and had only evenings to work on my book. Weekends were for my husband and household chores. I also had to learn about the business of self-publishing and accounting. But I persevered and in 2002 my book was ready. European Cut features 5 basic slopers: Bodice, Skirt, Sleeve, Torso and Pants.

 

I think that the best benefit of self-publishing is the fact that I "met" very interesting women online. Some of my customers became my cherished friends. I learned from them as they learned from me and that is a beautiful bonus! Now I have to finish the other books I plan to write.

 

Elizabeth Allemong

VESTIS BOOKS

 

http://www.vestisbooks.com  | E-mail: [email protected]

 

 

Linda Harber     

Linda Harber is a “fairy godmother” that takes her calling seriously. In addition to sewing couture quality wedding gowns, ballroom and dance costumes, her most rewarding projects are the occasional brides who are deserving of a special gift.  

The first bride to experience the benevolent magic had a beautiful heart and needed a gown to match. Linda met her the day she was engaged to a close friend.  As she got to know her, it was clear the young bride-to-be maintained her virtue and a servant’s heart through a tremendously difficult childhood. One month later, the friend’s father tragically died and in the midst of their grief, Linda wanted to bring a blessing to the family.  It was 6 months later when the bride walked down the aisle in her original Linda Marie, one-of-a-kind, hand draped silk and lace gown.  

Linda Harber

For over 15 years, Linda has maintained a part-time business making everything from custom wedding gowns to danceable feather wings and a snake’s head for a ballet company, where she worked as Costume Mistress. Occasionally, there are interesting projects that challenge her creativity such as a commissioned anniversary quilt for a Bible study organization, ballet tutus, skating costumes and ballroom gowns. One memorable undertaking was a party game challenge where the client desired a winning concept for use of one yard of fabric; a cummerbund, bow tie, handbag, boutonnière and corsage were created and stole the show!

 

Recently, Linda has delved into alternations more than original gowns. Several brides have fallen in love with sample gowns no longer in production, but in the wrong size, and purchased them anyway, hoping she could work a miracle.  Out comes the wand and a size 12 becomes a size 2.  Linda would like to make a rule that no bride is allowed to shop for her gown without being accompanied by her alterations guru and a good fitting bra!

Sewing education has been a learning journey. Linda’s mother shared her love and skill in the craft at a young age, making most of her garments. At age 6 a toy sewing machine was Linda’s first expedition into her life long love for sewing. Her first and only home economics class was in 7th grade. Unfortunately by then, her skills were well beyond the curriculum being taught.  So she turned to her mom again for coaching and instruction. Linda never took another sewing class until majoring in Home Economics in college. She made it through a plethora of classes at Cal Poly San Luis Obispo and Cal State Long Beach but dropped out to get married and pursue her first love of being a wife and mother. After her children graduated college, Linda returned to take tailoring, draping, couture techniques and fashion illustration at Orange Coast College.

Self taught for most of Linda’s career, a defining moment in her early development was when her mother helped her make a halter-top they saw in 17 Magazine. Linda’s “hero-mom” encouraged her to create her own special version and continue even beyond her skill level. Mom always knew what was in style by reading Vogue Pattern Magazine, which Linda still reads today. Linda’s sister recalls many times at school when friends would comment: “Why is your sister wearing such weird clothes?” and the reply was: “You won’t think it is weird 3 months from now…when it is in fashion here!” Linda credits her love of design to these on trend experiences from her high school years where she always led the way in modern fashion.  

Linda's Daughter Wedding Dress

After a brief experiment as a Dance and Activewear storeowner, she decided to focus on her love of sewing. Linda began competing at conferences in 2002 and was a finalist in the Threads Magazine challenge in both 2002 and 2003. She joined as a member of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals in 2007. Linda taught vocational education at the local high school level for a year until the program was cut due to budget issues.  

Linda has an extensive stash consisting of wedding silks, laces, ribbons, rhinestones, faux fur fabric, and many unfinished projects. Storage and room to work are a constant struggle, which she overcomes with her talent for organization. A place for everything and everything in its place is a way of life. Linda’s well-organized studio is currently located in the second bedroom of her Irvine, CA condo. It is decorated with large photos of Linda’s most proud accomplishments, i.e. her children’s wedding garments. In addition, a favorite sign hangs prominently:  “Everyone is entitled to my opinion” an attitude based on years of successful fashion sense and inherited confidence.

Linda married her high school sweetheart, Andy 35 years ago. They have two children and three grandchildren.

 

 

Mirjana Frelilich     

Mirjana Freilich has been a member of ASDP since 2006 and was the National Chairperson when we were called the “Professional Association of Custom Clothiers.” Mirjana is also a member of the New England Chapter. She lives in Natick, Ma with her husband and chocolate lab. Mirjana says that being a member of ASDP has given her a venue for further education locally and at National conferences, as well as a sense of belonging to a larger business community where she can learn from and share with colleagues.

She has earned a reputation as a resource for the finest in custom-made clothing for women. Whether you are looking for quality career clothing, an exquisite bridal gown, "mother of" or "guest of" fashions for weddings, bar/bat mitzvahs, or any other special occasion, Mirjana will work with you to translate your vision into the perfect garment.

 

The experience of having clothing custom made in the Artwear studio is quite unlike that of purchasing ready-to-wear. It is a no-pressure, enjoyable experience in an aesthetic environment. Many options are available to ensure that your custom made garment is exactly what you want.

If you've experienced the frustration of unsuccessfully trying to find just what you're looking for at retail or if you have special fitting requirements, then you are the ideal couture candidate. Few women have the "perfect " figure but in couture that is not a problem. Everyone can look beautiful no matter what their age or size.

As a custom clothier she has worked with many clients. Her extensive education and experience in design, patternmaking, fitting and couture sewing techniques enables her to advise you on suitable color, style and fabric choices. The result is a beautiful garment that enhances your best features.

Mirjana delights in working with her clients - discriminating women who choose to wear unique clothing with the style, fit and quality construction which comes from clothing that is custom made. Custom clothing is the most personalized form of dressing possible! Clients work with her on the design and fabric choices that will result in quality garments of exceptional fit and impeccable workmanship.

To get inspired by Mirjana quality of workmanship please check out her website, http://www.artwearcouture.com

 

Patricia Robison     

ASDP Member since 1998. I live in Bellingham, Washington a town of 100,000 midway between Seattle and Vancouver British Columbia. The focus of my business is bridal and formal wear alterations.  I rent studio space from a large bridal shop and work as a contractor for them. I share the space with two other alterations specialists. I do a limited amount of custom work for individual clients.

Patricia Robison

I began sewing as a child under the tutelage of my paternal grandmother. By the ninth grade I was making all my own clothes and clothes for family members. I majored in clothing and textiles at Washington State University, graduated in 1970; so, so very long ago. I came to Bellingham intending to do graduate work in theatrical costuming but impulsively bought a weaving loom and a sheep farm (really, what was I thinking?) and joined the back to the land movement. I spent 15 years spinning, dyeing and weaving the wool from my sheep. I sold items at street fairs and eventually found representation in galleries in Seattle, San Francisco and Los Angeles. I continued to sew clothing for myself and my children. In the eighties I went to work for the Magic Fit Pattern company and traveled around the US teaching pattern making seminars and selling the Magic Fit patterns. (I still use them). During this time I got back into sewing and started to pick up some production work, some home dec work, some custom work, some dance costumes and custom western horseback riding clothes. A little bit of everything.

When my youngest daughter went off to college I got a job selling wedding dresses. I was a pretty terrible sales person and the back room where the alterations were done kept distracting me from the job I was hired to do. I helped the seamstresses with pattern making and learned all about the specialized construction that goes into commercial bridal gowns. I stayed with the shop for four years and then set out to develop my own business.

I joined PACC and attended my first conference in Portland, Oregon.  I took classes from Bobbie Carr and Susan Khaljie. I found “my people”.

I was hooked. The second conference was in St. Louis and I entered the first Threads Challenge, the mohair challenge. I did it because I wanted to participate in the fashion show at the conference and because I wanted to be in Threads Magazine. My outfit didn’t make it into the magazine but I learned a lot about mohair (it’s really itchy). I got to see some wonderful garments up close and enjoyed the backstage ambiance and excitement of the fashion show.

I have attended conference every year since I joined and the classes and opportunities for learning outside class have enhanced my business and life in extraordinary ways. It is wonderful to have a group of peers to learn from and laugh with. I got to work on the beautiful Embassy ball gown wedding dress designed and made by our wonderful member Jennifer Oberg. It was very special to get to work in her Maui studio.  It’s been great to go to and explore new cities like Savannah and Nashville.

I have participated in the Threads Challenge every year I’ve been eligible. (And one year when I wasn’t). I’ve struggled to make things that didn’t work and photograph them so they looked better than they were. I struggled to get things done by deadlines.

And get all the proper documentation together except when I found out (too late) what bullet points were. Through participation in the challenges I’ve been able to write a few Threads magazine articles. I’ve been lucky and honored to win some challenges and stand on the stage with people who do incredible work. It been a great privilege to be a member of ASDP and I am happy that as my career winds down new, young member are choosing to join us.

 

Judith Baer     

Judith BaerI have always been interested in art and fashion. I learned to sew from my mother when I was a kid and I never chose the easy garments to do. I loved to challenge myself by sewing garments such as an eight gore plaid skirt. When I was 12 years old I entered a shoe design contest with the Broadway Department Store and won first place. The next year, I was so excited when I saw those shoes for sale in their store. I took every sewing and art class I could while going through school.

 

While in my twenties, and raising my small children, I learned my crafts. I ran a dressmaking business out of my home, making wedding & bridesmaids' gowns, drill team costumes of 50 each for 2 different high schools, a small line of clothes for a boutique owner in La Jolla, CA and many private clients with different needs and body shapes. I also continued as an artist by drawing with pen & ink and selling them at local home-base Christmas boutiques.

 

In 1980, I developed a line of children's clothing under the name of "judith irene creations". With my children in school, and my 5 year old daughter and her friends as my models, I designed and manufactured a line of overalls with animal faces embroidered on the bibs. I was represented in the Cal Mart downtown Los Angeles and the line was sold there and at the Kids Market Fashion Week in New York City. The line was carried by 150 stores and one mail order catalog. The proudest moment was when I received an order from Neiman Marcus for their new Las Vegas store's opening. After a few years, I needed to close my children's line of clothing because my husband and I decided to separate. I moved with my children to Los Angeles from San Diego to pursue a career in the fashion business.

 

To further my education I took a pattern making course at LA Trade Tech at night, while I worked at International Costumes in Torrance, CA. My instructor Yuki was impressed with my skills and interviewed me for a job with a dress manufacturer "Street Scene ". That was my first job as a designer, patternmaker and doing cost analysis and quality control. I have worked at several different companies as a designer, but I realized that my strengths were in the craft of making the patterns for production. It was what made me happy. I was hired as a head production patternmaker for "Nancy Johnson". The designs were elegant, detailed and pieces of art. The company was known for beautiful southern bell dresses made out of Battenberg lace table clothes. My job was to make the intricate patterns, supervise the sewing and fit the garment on a size 8 model, send the pattern out for grading sizes 4 -14 and then make sure that each size garment's pattern would fit properly onto only one table cloth. I would also draw out embroidery designs for garments that the company would hire total villages in China to hand embroider and sew. It was my dream job, until; it had to close for financial reasons in the early 90s.

 

For the next ten years, I worked for a few different companies as a head production patternmaker or on a free-lance basis. In the fashion business it isn't how long you have worked at one company but how long you've been doing your job. I was making good money, increasing my wages with each new job. In 1991 my daughter went off to college and there was a new man in my life. I started learning to paint in watercolor and to dye fabric. I started showing on the art circuit, which could be up to 25 weekend shows a year and in 1993 I also joined two co-ops. I did this in addition to working full time as a patternmaker. At the Palos Verdes Art Center I joined "The Artists' Studio", a co-op, in which I showed my watercolor paintings and a small line of wearable art at their two galleries. At Art-A-Fair, co-op, in Laguna Beach, I exhibit my watercolor paintings during the summer show and in 2000 I started showing my wearable art. This gave me the ability to keep working downtown to pay for my daughter's education and to be creative in the arts.

 

Graphic designs and couture workmanship are the hallmark of my work. Pieced graphic jackets, vests and coats using couture sewing and wonderful artistic details are what I’m known for. I also do a line of hand dyed silk chiffon garments (view example photo) that are painted in a “Jackson Pollock” style. My work is shown at art shows, sold in 24 boutiques across the country and in Dubai, UAE at Saks Fifth Avenue.

 

I have been creating exhibition pieces that have won many awards. My jacket “Misty Swirl” won first place at the 2005 “Pacific International Quilt Festival” and Best of Show Use of Color at the 2006 “Glendora Quilt Show”. I had the honor of exhibiting my coat “Etruscan Erté” in the 2005-2006 Palos Verdes Art Center International “Wearable Expressions”. In June 2006 “Etruscan Erté” won second place from juror Melissa Leventon, well known author, professor and costumes/textile consultant, at “Convergence 2006 Grand Rapid”. In 2007 I was chosen as one of the designers to exhibit in the “Bernina Fashion Show, Diamond Odyssey”, and I was thrilled to have my gown “Infanta in Diamonds” win the Viewer’s Choice Award.

 

In 2008, I joined the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals, ASDP. I went to the conference in Chicago that year. I enjoyed the networking and the classes I took. I took a tambour beading class from Robert Haven, which is a style of Lesage Couture Embroidery that Chanel, Dior, and most of the French couturiers use in their garments. It is a wonderful skill to add to my repertoire. At this time, I was also excited to be one of the first to sign up for the MSDP, Master Certification Program for the ASDP.

 

I am very proud to say that I have completed the MSDP this past year. I decide to enroll in the certificate program for my own satisfaction. I did go to a community college but I’ve always regretted not completing my college education. I wanted to prove to myself and the fashion gods, what I’ve learned over the past 50 years. The certificate program is very comprehensive, thorough and very time consuming. When I signed up I had a 5 year contract and I needed to get a year extension. For the past year I mainly concentrated on the certificate and cut back on my business. Now that I’ve finished, I have a renewed excitement to work on a new group of jackets.

 

 

Sandy Dunn     

Sandy Claire

The phone rang on Sunday evening, Thanksgiving weekend in 2011. It was my friend BJ, who has been working in the film industry for 15 years: “I know it is a holiday but what are you doing tomorrow?” she said.

It was an emergency costume job for a Vancouver TV series production: take a vintage dress, copy it and make it in triplicate with three separate sleeve options. And it was shooting Tuesday. “I guess we are building a dress Monday”, I replied. “What time do we start?”

This was my first job as a stitcher, a crazy, trial-by-fire introduction to the world of film costuming. BJ recruited another friend as well but it took three warm bodies a full 10 hours in the workshop to complete. We managed to get the dress done and BJ had it shipped to the set late Monday night. The director loved it, it played, and a week or so later I watched our dress on the TV screen, with sleeve option #2! I was hooked.

My next chance to sew for film was in summer of 2012, when I spent two weeks helping BJ build costumes for a direct-to-DVD film. The movie involved puppies, a monkey, two aliens, various farm animals and a few humans, too! We built super hero costumes for the kids and their grandfather, alien costumes and a space suit for the monkey.

Forward to September 2013, my family is grown and independent. The phone rang again. BJ said, “Are you ready to do a feature film? I’ve been hired as a cutter and I need good stitchers. We start in October.” How could I say no? I was hired as a stitcher under an IATSE Union Permit. I was required to take a two-day “Motion Picture Industry Orientation Program” offered by Capilano University which covers the basics of set etiquette and rules. Another course requirement was WHMIS (Workplace Hazardous Materials Information System).

October stretched into December, and by the end of January, I had enough days on the job to qualify for union membership. We were still sewing in March and it was not until the end of May before we finally closed up the workshop. That was an important lesson: the duration of the job is ALWAYS longer than you are told at the beginning.

Bound by a confidentiality agreement, I can’t say much about that particular film but it is in post-production with a release date sometime in 2016. It was a massive “build”. That means we built every principle actors’ costumes from scratch. The film is a medieval fantasy, based on a popular video game and the technical aspects of the production floored me. The costumes needed to be meticulously detailed, perfectly stitched, they had to fit well and be durable to withstand the rigors of days on the sets. There were six cutters, fifteen run-of-show stitchers and an additional 6-8 stitchers brought in at the peak times to meet our deadlines. There was also a five-man Armoury shop to build all the armour and chain mail (trade secret: most of the armour is made from leather!). The background actors were dressed in costumes imported from rental shops in Italy and Los Angeles. These costumes required alterations and sometimes embellishments to meet the designer’s specifications.

At the end of November, I wrapped another 15 weeks as a stitcher/builder on a period film about fur trappers in the early 1800s. The shop was an explosion of leather and fur – it is fascinating to work with authentic materials and patterns. A further challenge was to make era-correct costumes while building in warmth for the actors who were on outdoor sets in sub-zero weather.
As a cutter, BJ’s responsibility is to make, fit and alter all costumes that cannot be bought or rented. She is briefed by the costume designer and assistant designer, provided with detailed drawings, specifications and guidelines for whether traditional or alternative fabrics and methods of construction should be used. With the designer, cutters carry out research into period costumes to correctly reproduce the detail of the garment. They draft the pattern, cut to the actors’ measurements and make a toile (rough version of the garment) using muslin.
Cutters estimate the time needed to create the costume and the stitchers begin the making the costume under the cutter’s direction. Cutters attend fittings with actors, sometimes with the designer or the assistant designer, and then make alterations to the costume. Alas, stitchers rarely get to see the actors.

The level of sewing skills in the best shops is astounding. Our responsibility is to deliver the best possible work to the cutter’s specifications. And none of those specifications are anything like I have worked with before – not manufacturing, or home sewing. The desired result for camera is very different from consumer tailoring or sewing. Of course, the actor needs to be comfortable so garments are usually lined (often with silk), and warmth or cooling is built in through the use of heavy interlining or vents. With the advent of high definition cameras, every detail is magnified, particularly around the face, so extra care is needed for collars and necklines. Interfacing is not used – the cut edge lines show under the studio lights so garments are usually fully underlined instead. There is a tremendous amount of handwork – often a week will pass and I do not sit at a machine – it is all hand sewing, sometimes with leather and sinew.
The time commitment to work in the film industry is a huge one, especially if you are working on set. It took me until 2013 to take the leap into the industry because until then, I couldn’t commit the time. Some weeks we work 12 hour days, six days a week, plus commute time to the workshop.

And that’s just in the costume shop itself. There are also costume jobs on set as a dresser, working with background actors (also called extras). If you are in the “truck” on set, you are required to be there from the call time until the director calls “wrap” – it is not unusual for a day on set to be 16 or 18 hours long. Hair, makeup and wardrobe are the first to arrive and the last to leave – I have not worked that environment yet, but I think I’m getting too old for those hours! They say film folk have no life. I agree!

On the bright side, craft service (food!) is usually plentiful and good quality and the productions are completed in a finite period of time so you do get a chance to rest up for the next one!
To be successful as a film/tv costumer, you need to be prepared for last minute requests, deadlines that are really deadlines and not just “coma lines”. You need to be able to work under tremendous pressure, sometimes with a designer’s assistant hovering over you waiting to whisk a garment off to a fitting or a director show-and-tell. You need to be fast, accurate and you need a good “can do” attitude. Maintaining a sense of humour helps.

It is a challenging field, but one full of creative opportunities with the chance to look at a finished job (sometimes 30 feet high on a movie screen!) and feel good about it.

 

Linda McCoy     

Linda McCoy

Linda has had a lifelong interest in sewing and creative activities. Excited about starting something from nothing, and turning her creative abilities into a job, she's launched three businesses at different times over the past 30 years; including a retail store, gift basket company, and most recently Snips, a custom sewing and alterations business. In conjunction with Snips she's designed projects and written instructions for sewing publications, and done product demonstration at trade events.
 
She has studied commercial art and graphic design, patternmaking and sewing techniques with many well-known instructors. She serves as membership chair for the ASDP Wisconsin Chapter, and as a Board Member/Fundraising/Events Chair for a local non-profit in her area. Linda lives with her family near Sheboygan, Wisconsin.

 

 

 

 

 

Michelle Moenssen     

Michelle Moessen

This month we would like to introduce you to Michelle Moenssen who is the newly-elected VP of Education, taking office on January 1, 2015.

Michelle has been sewing professionally for 25 years, and holds a Bachelor of Arts degree in fashion design and merchandising from Wayne State University.

Early on, she was an Elizabethan costume designer for three years for the Detroit Institute of Arts, and after making Renaissance costumes for The Madame Cadillac Dance Theater of Detroit, traveled to France with them on their European tour.

She opened her first tailoring and custom dressmaking business in 1996, and was chosen "Best Tailor in metro Detroit" by the readers of 2 different lifestyle magazines in 2002.

She served as secretary on the board of the Detroit chapter of Fashion Group International before becoming Regional Director in 2005. While director, she won an award for most successful national event of 2006, bringing Daniel Vosovic, a Project Runway finalist to speak to the members.

An accomplished fiber artist, her dyed and felted garments have been accepted into national juried competitions and exhibitions including the Ann Arbor Art Fair, Surface Design Association, Handweaver's Guild of America, the One of a Kind Show in Chicago and The American Craft Council's flagship Baltimore show.
 
She has taught fashion design at the International Academy of Design and Technology, workshops for the Handweaver's Guild of America, the American Sewing Guild and the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild, as well as classes in her own studio.  She served as secretary on the board of the Ann Arbor Fiberarts Guild for 4 years.

She currently owns Nonpareil Studio in Ann Arbor, Michigan where she designs and creates original custom clothing and alterations.

 

 

Lillian Kincey     

Lillian Kincey

This month we would like to introduce you to Lillian Kincey from Winterville, Georgia.  She has been a member since 2001. After years of training in tailoring, pattern making, formal and bridal wear techniques and general sewing she turned her skills to heirloom sewing making christening gowns or layette that are one of a kind treasures. She was quoted in Athens magazine “The second her last embroidery stitch is finished generations of memories begin.” 

Lilian started to sew at the young age of 8 and was taught by her Mother who always made sure that whatever Lillian made it was done to the best of her ability. And always told her “If you’re not going to do it right, don’t tell anyone I taught you to sew.”

She brings to her clients the art of fine sewing and a one of a kind garment for the special ceremony or an infant’s baptism.

Her gowns are reminiscent of the gentleness and traditions of the Victorian Era; they are mostly made using white or ivory Swiss cotton batiste, cotton lawn and silk dupionni. Each gown is adorned with fine lace, silk ribbon, hand embroider or pearls she has no problem making each  a unique  treasure.

The layettes she makes are made from fine fabrics, laces and ribbons as the christening gowns, but some designs are repeated.  Some of the items she makes are short gowns, diaper cover, and bonnet, bibs, booties and blankets or coverlets.

Some of her clients will bring her a wedding dress to make into a Christening gown or a photo of a gown worn by a great grandmother to be copied she rises to the challenge and enjoys making memories for her clients.

Check out her website at www.lilliansheirlooms.com and her Facebook page.

 

 

Cisa Barry

Cisa Barry

This month we would like to introduce you to Cisa Barry from New Albany, Indiana, who has been a member since 2011. She acquired her skills apprenticing for 2 years at 2 different businesses in Bloomington, IN and Louisville, KY. She continues her education through her hard work at her shop. 
 
Like many of us, starting out in 2008, she used a spare bedroom as her work space. From there  the business has been on the rise, growing from home to having 2 full time and 2 part time employees in a commercial space in the historic White House Center in downtown New Albany. Her main business is alterations and tailoring, wedding dresses and over the last year has seen a boom in custom work, where her true passion lies.

At the end of this year, she is planning another move which will double her current space and allow for future growth. With the larger staff, she is able to take on more work, including referrals from area boutiques and bridal salons. She also works with a local designer making Western Quarter Horse jackets for competitive participants. Cisa and her staff find this work challenging but also very rewarding, as they never sees the clients in person, (a sample of their work is posted). 
   
In addition to starting her MAS certification this year, Cisa’s new goal is to start a traveling sewing school. She feels there is a real need to teach the younger generations the basic sewing skills that are so lacking in today’s school curriculums. Cisa said “We’ve got this whole generation that doesn’t even know how to thread a needle.” Likely, many in this association would agree with that statement.

She is determined to do her part to not let our art form die out. Cisa’s future plans include adding a fabric store to her core business and offering in-house classes.

We are proud to say that she was selected as a “20 Under 40” recipient last year. This recognition is given to individuals in Clark and Floyd counties under the age of 40 who have made a difference in their work and extracurricular activities. She was also nominated for the Better Business Bureau’s Torch Award for Marketplace Excellence. While she was not selected last year, she will apply again this fall.

She attended her first conference in 2013 and had a remarkable time! This year she is looking forward to taking Carol Kimball’s master class and reuniting with fellow members in Philadelphia.

Check out her website at http://www.sewfitting.com. You can also follow her on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/sewfitting.

 

Carol Kimball

Carol Kimball

Carol Kimball has been a member of the Association for 23 years. She is a person who quietly helps out our Association and we would like to recognize her this month for the amazing work she does formatting our Perspectives Newsletter.  She is gifted in putting the information into an interesting format we can all enjoy.  Thank you from all the membership.

Carol shares her talents in classes that are often offered at our annual conferences. This year she’s teaching two: the new Video Clips for Your Business and her 2-day Master Class in Fashion Illustration.

If you haven’t taken her sketching class or feel you could use a refresher course, sign up early so you don’t miss this opportunity. You will leave with your drawing skills improved 10-fold. Last year in Nashville Carol took pictures of me and did my individual croquis, which I use all the time.

When she pitched teaching Video Clips for us, she was frank that she knew nothing about how to do it. She found doing research and teaching herself new software programming fascinating. She’ll cover options from low-rent to Indie-movie level with her usual relaxed humor and copious documentation. Her first freebie is up on her website, www.CarolKimball.net.

We are very lucky to have such a gifted lady as a member that is so willing to share her knowledge and talents so freely.

By Brenda Breitenmoser
 

 

Debbie LaFara

Debbie LaFara

Debbie LaFara knew from a very early age that she was meant to sew. Her mother, who has made all of her own clothes for nearly 80 years, taught her the basics and armed her with a Singer sewing machine at age 10. All throughout her school years, she dreamt of being in the fashion industry but her career path took a detour after graduating with honors from Maryville University in St. Louis, MO. With a BFA in Interior Design in hand, she joined her family’s commercial interiors business to oversee the creative department until the business was sold in the early ‘90s. During this 20 year stint, still fueled by the urge to sew, Debbie attained an Associates Degree in fashion from Washington University.
 
The sale of the family business gave Debbie the opportunity to take yet another detour by starting a custom jewelry business where she created one of a kind pieces in 22k granulated gold. During this time, Debbie was a co-founder and served on the board as treasurer of the Midwest Metalsmiths organization for 8 years. Although she loved creating works of art in precious metals and stones, the rising cost of gold told her that she needed to return to her true passion of sewing.
 
In 2007, Debbie finally took the plunge to begin her career in fashion. For the last seven years, she has been creating custom dresses, suits and gowns through couture techniques. Being an entrepreneur at heart, she has also expanded her works to include creating custom patterns. Her long term goals are to offer these patterns on line and through specially retail stores.
 
Debbie is honored to be a part of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals' board and is the current ASDP Treasurer.

 

 

Lois Anderson

Lois Anderson

Lois Anderson started Magnolia Hill Re-Creations in 2010 as a way to marry her love of sewing and concern for the environment.  In her “previous life” she was an environmental consultant for 12 years until a failed back surgery ended her career.  After a number of years on disability, she searched for a way to feel productive and help people.  The answer was to use a skill she already had — sewing and needlework.  Taught by her mother, Lois has been sewing and doing embroidery since grade school.  She joined ASDP almost immediately at the encouragement of a current member just so she could participate in the Threads Challenge to make a “no waste” garment.

The name of her business was inspired by the Victorian language of flowers where each flower has a unique meaning.  Magnolia means “love of nature” and reflects the focus of her business.  She reuses fabrics and alters clothing, and/or adds embellishments, to “re-create” dull or out-of-style articles into modern, useful clothing and accessories.  Some of her favorite projects are converting turtlenecks into open-neck, fashionable tops; incorporating vintage handkerchiefs into anything from blouses to pillows to table runners; and remaking lacey, vintage table runners or tablecloths into blouses and jackets.  She also made a quilt from a large t-shirt collection and has been asked to create more.  Her fabric scraps often end up as doll clothes, fabric flowers, or in quilts.

Since Lois can’t throw anything out that she perceives as having life still in it, doing mending and repairs are also part of her business.  At the encouragement of, and with some tips from, her mother, Lois taught herself to do reweaving to repair tears and holes in quality garments.  She learned the technique by using two Cornell Extension Bulletins written by Gladys L. Butt that belonged to her mother.  One of the bulletins, entitled “Keeping Clothes Wearable” is dated October 1942.

Lois also teaches beginning to intermediate sewing and uses her skills to complete several projects for charities each year.  Lois currently serves ASDP as the NJ Chapter Representative.



Nancy Pace

Nancy PaceI have been sewing most of my life. From the time I was 5 or 6 until I received my own sewing machine for my 16th birthday, I ran to my mother’s sewing machine whenever she left it for any reason. She was not afraid for me to use her sewing machine, so I have never been afraid to attempt sewing anything that struck my fancy. I have made most of my own clothing since I was 12. I am tall and have always had fitting issues, so I began learning fitting in the process of sewing for myself. I occasionally sewed for other people beginning soon after receiving my own machine at 16.

In the mid 80's I decided I wanted to make a business of my sewing and was fortunate to be chosen to attend a Sewing As a Business Workshop sponsored by Clemson University, Coats & Clark, Dritz, ASG, and others. In that workshop I learned about ASDP which was then Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC) and joined under the sponsorship of the organizers of the Sewing As a Business Workshop. Then I took a pattern making class at a local tech school. Shortly followed by participation in a program that culminated in a professional sewing certificate from another local tech school. As the apprenticeship for the professional sewing certificate I began doing alterations for a laundry and quickly learned that there was a large untapped market for an embroiderer, so I began to research machines and talk to people who were in the embroidery business.

In April of 1993 I bought my first commercial embroidery machine and began a fantastic educational journey that has been beyond my wildest imaginings. In 2007 I bought my second commercial embroidery machine and digitizing software that would allow me create my own custom embroidery designs. I do embroidery and digitizing for a local sporting goods store, as well as digitizing of logos and designs for individuals and corporate customers.

Among my other adventures in textiles and fiber arts is the making of Ecclesiastical Stoles with custom digitized and embroidered symbols, upholstery, bra making, Victorian costume design and construction for both men and women, competition dance costume design and construction, hand knitted garment design, and spinning. Oh, and I do alterations as well, but, while alterations help to pay the bills, they are not nearly as much fun as all these other adventures.

 

 Nancy Pace custom made stole

 Nancy Pace custom embroidery

 

 Carey Pumo

Carey PumoCarey Pumo from Hummelstown, PA has been a member of ASDP since January 2009 and participates actively in the monthly meetings of the Baltimore Chapter.  Carey started her professional career as a pharmacist but more recently felt a strong calling to fill a need that many women desperately wanted and needed, including her.  Starting with a vision to create a unique business where women could go and have custom-made bras created, Carey launched Curvatood LLC in January of 2011.   Clients can help create their special garment at Curvatood, whether looking for an improved silhouette, straps that stay up on the shoulder, wires that are painless, supportive sports bra or fashion corsets just to name a few.

 

After 2+ years in business, Carey’s goals are to continue to grow a strong client base, and with several recent purchases of industrial manufacturing equipment she hopes to develop a line of brassieres.  With a strong interest in lifelong learning, she recently studied CAD (computer-aided drafting) pattern making software to enhance her pattern making speed and efficiency.  She has already put that tool to great use with custom client work.  Her passion for foundation garments is demonstrated in her History of the Bra lecture which she presents to local community groups upon request.

 

Carey is supported by a loving husband and two children as well as the extended family of ASDP members.  She is very much looking forward to the Philadelphia conference in 2014!

 

 

 


Denise Woodson Ofria

Denise Woodson Ofria

Denise graduated from the University of Wisconsin Law School, worked for the Internal Revenue Service and the U.S. Department of Labor and practiced law in San Francisco and Silicon Valley. She left the practice of law and moved to Arizona for health reasons; after which she enrolled in the fashion and design department at Mesa Community College. She joined ASDP as a student member and transferred to regular membership when her idea for developing a line of career wear for plus size women began to take shape.

Although her business plan was disrupted by a move from Arizona to Colorado, she continued as an ASDP member in Colorado. Denise states that ASDP’s commitment to promoting quality workmanship, collegiality, and continuing education establishes ASDP as the premier organization for serious seamstresses and designers. For this reason, Denise hopes to give back to ASDP by serving as treasurer for the organization.

 

 

 

 

 

Rachel Myers

Rachel MyersRachel Myers, President of the Home Décor Learning Center (HDLC), opened her business in June of 2012 to serve the community after Mt. Diablo Adult Education and Acalanes Adult Education discontinued their upholstery programs.  The concept of the HDLC was developed in response to this need.  There is no other business quite like the HDLC, making it a unique place for the students to come and work on their projects.

For more than thirty years, Rachel has been doing custom dressmaking, alterations, and many unusual projects including costumes and other specialty items as well as home décor.  She has been an ASDP member for several years, originally doing custom clothing and alterations, but has since concentrated more effort on upholstery and home décor sewing rather than garment sewing.  She is also a long-time member of the American Sewing Guild, having served as Chapter President, Treasurer, Newsletter Editor, and Fundraising over the years.

Now Rachel, through HDLC, aspires to teach people to become self-sufficient in creating interior design projects to decorate their homes, customize autos, boats, and RV’s and prepares those students who wish to pursue a career in the industry.  Rachel enjoys teaching and watching the accomplishments and satisfaction of the students realizing that they have produced a quality project.

The HDLC offers memberships which entitle those people to come anytime during open hours to use the 4000 square foot facility with all the tools needed to complete their projects.  The HDLC also offers a wide variety of classes such as the various levels of upholstery, drapery, valances, roman shades, pillows, cushions, slipcovers, quilting and other subjects all while having fun participating in the learning process.  
For more information, please visit www.homedecorlc.com.

 

 

Gayle Moline

Gayle MolineGayle Moline of Manson, Iowa is originally from the Chicago area and comes from a long family tradition of experienced sewers and tailors.  She started sewing at an early age, learning first from her mother, then high school teachers, then at Iowa State University where she actually majored in Art Education, not Home Economics as originally planned.  She met her husband there, married and moved to a farm in rural Iowa and had four sons.  She does now have four granddaughters that she is starting to teach to sew.

Her business, Gayle’s for the Bride, was opened in January 1988 as a custom bridal and formal shop creating gowns for the entire wedding party and proms.  As the years have pasted and the bridal industry has shifted its production to China and the Far East, her business has evolved to almost entirely alterations, still only specializing in formal and wedding apparel for women. Always located in another house on the farm property, the shop now resides in an old-fashioned two-story farmhouse across the road from her home.  There she sews, meets clients and carries a small selection of jewelry, veils and headpieces, and other accessories suited to the bride and her attendants.

Gayle has been a member of ASDP since 1993 and has attended all the conferences other than the very first one that was held in San Francisco.  Being from a rural area and having no chapter to belong to, she has always felt that the conferences were her “chapter meeting”. Even though she says that the classes have always offered her many new skills and knowledge, it is the friendships that she has made that have mattered most. She was been a regional representative to the board, 2003 Volunteer of the Year, Benefits committee chairman, and continues as a Threads magazine pattern tester.

 

Anita Prowse

Anita Prowse Anita Prowse is from Warwick Bermuda and is truly flattered that we would consider her to be our featured member this month.  She joined in 2009 as an intern member and had great plans to attend our National Conference that same year but unforeseen circumstance made that impossible. She has had a very busy time since then.    
One of her highlights in the last three years was her daughter's wonderful wedding in May 2010 which was held in Ludgvan, England (the village where Anita grew up).  She drafted a pattern (her very first) of the dress Hayley wanted and made her wedding dress in 8 weeks (mostly evenings as, she was working full-time).  She also kept Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture book next to her sewing table (Anita took a course with Susan in 1998).  
Even though Anita has had many setbacks the last few years she still remained a member and now three years later she has decided to return to her sewing/art and wants to make tailored, wearable art jackets. She's never had a sewing business, but perhaps will one day...
The photo is of Hayley and Anita at Land's End Hotel in Cornwall (where the wedding reception was held).  Her daughter choose her shoes that have tape measure rosettes and miniature tape measure on the heels!!

 

 

 

Judy Gross

Judy Gross photoJudy Gross has been a member of ASDP since May of 2005, and is also a member of the Appalachian Chapter.  She started sewing when she was knee high to a sewing machine.   She received her sewing education primarily from her mother, and other ‘self-taught’ methods, but after retiring from a 30-year career as a nurse Judy studied fashion design at Houston Community College.
An avid hiker and backpacker, Judy first started a sewing business doing custom sewing and alterations.  After moving to Asheville North Carolina where she now lives with her husband, 2 dogs and a cat, she has put fashion sewing on the back burner as she pursues her other passion of long distance backpacking.  Using her love of sewing and her skills in pattern design she designed her first ultra-light weight tent in 2009.  LightHeart Gear was established, and she now designs and manufactures ultralight backpacking tents and hiking gear. Judy has 3 very popular tent designs for backpackers, one of which was designed for the extra tall hiker, and is currently working on a tent for long distant bike-packers.
The tent business, started in her basement sewing room, soon outgrew the area where she had several industrial sewing machines crammed into a small space along with just an 8 foot cutting table in the next room.  The logical solution was to move into a dedicated ‘shop’, but, the tent business alone couldn’t really support the expense.  So a new business was born – Excelsior Sewing, which now does contract sewing for other small backpacking gear companies as well as continues to make the LightHeart Gear tents.  www.lightheartgear.com


Mechiel Whitmore

Mechiel began designing and sewing for her dolls at 7 years old. She made her own clothes by the end of grade school. In High School Mechiel made costumes for both the school and community theatres and also enjoyed making her own fancy dresses.  She started sewing for the public over 30 years ago and has maintained her own business for more than 20 years.


Mechiel WhitmoreMechiel strives to improve and learn new skills continuously to feed her own passion and the needs of her clients. When she became a member of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals in 2007 she told us that it was life and career changing. She got such a burst of renewed self-confidence at the 2008 conference that she hasn’t missed one since. She is working towards her Master Sewing and Design Professional Certification. Mechiel took part in the Vionnet Identique exhibit in 2009 and was thrilled to have her Zero Waste Sundress pattern and article published in Sewstylish Magazine Summer 2012 edition.

Her story of the process involved in making the amazing San Antonio, Texas Fiesta coronation gowns was published in the Vogue Patterns Magazine Oct/Nov 2012. Mechiel has been working with other dressmakers on and off since 1992 creating the coronation gowns. They have just finished another fantastic season that you can see here; Mechiel worked with Laura Sepulveda on #3,7,8,11,17 The Court of Nature's Tapestry   She will have the privilege of making one of these gowns inher own workroom next season.

Her Mission:
My passion and purpose is to create any type of garment that a person wants and insure that the fit is the best possible for their personal body type and special wear needs.


 

Denise Severson

DSeversonDenise began sewing when she was five, restyling her Barbie doll dresses, which is a good way to learn extreme filling. She continued sewing and graduated from the University of Wisconsin-Madison with a bachelor's degree in Home Economics, emphasis on Textiles and Clothing (1982).

Joining the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals (ASDP, then PACC) in 2005 and BNI (Business Network International) in 2003 were two of the smartest decisions she's ever made. In ASDP, Denise is also a member of the Wisconsin chapter, having previously served as chapter secretary, and has recently served ASDP national as Challenge coordinator (2008) and VP-Communications (2009-2011). She has placed as a finalist in the Threads Challenge in 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2011, and 2012. In her local BNI chapter, Denise has served a term as president; vice-president, several terms; secretary-treasure, 1 term; and on various other committees. In addition, Denise has 3 finalist entries in the 2012 Alliance of Independent Pattern Companies Midnight Magic Challenge, 2 finalist entries in the 2013 Alliance of Independent Pattern Companies Ticket to Paradise Challenge, winning the choice for Petite Plus Patterns and placing 6th overall. She has juried into the Wisconsin Quilt Expo 2006 and 2007. She has also been published in Threads magazine (issues 142 and 155).

Her business is primarily alterations, but she also does some home dec, machine embroidery and custom work. She has taught clothing construction fro Rock County 4-H youth for 17 years and has previously worked for a Viking Sewing Machine dealership, fabric retailers and a drapery studio. She is scheduled to teach a half-day serger technique class at ASDP's Educational Conference in October 2013 in Nashville.

 

Rhonda Buss

Rhonda BussWhat a wonderful year it has been! I've celebrated my first year as a member of ASDP, such a wonderful organization. I decided to enter the Passion For Fashion contest that The American Sewing Expo and Baby Lock sponsors every September in Novi, MI. To my amazement, I won the People's Choice Award, very exciting! Over the summer I received a message from Threads Magazine asking if I would be interested in submitting my French jacket for an upcoming issue. Sending something away that you've spent quite a bit of time working on is a little daunting, but how could I pass up the opportunity? So off my little jacket went. You can see the jacket in the December/January 2013 issue. I am also wearing the jacket in the attached photo. The fun has not stopped as I just found out that I am one of five finalists who will audition at the sewing expo held in Puyallup, WA. I will be auditioning for a chance to be on the television program, "Sew It All." Such a wonderful opportunity! 
Three years ago I started my blog, www.rhondabuss.blogspot.com.  At the time, I really wasn't sure what to do. I would talk about my life and post garments that I had made. Over the past three years the blog has evolved into a passion. On Friday's I share garments that I have made using very simple shapes, rectangles, squares, circles and sometimes a triangle or two. This post also includes instructions on how to draft the pieces that I make. It's called Fabulous Free Pattern Fridays. On Saturday I post a tutorial on sleeve drafting. Each week I showcase a different sleeve and explain the drafting process. I love doing these posts as they stretch my mind and I hope that in turn helps to stretch the reader's mind as well. My Fabulous Free Pattern Friday posts have become my number one followed board on Pinterest.
When I'm not sewing, I fly! Twenty years ago I decided to learn to fly. Since then I have earned my instrument and commercial ratings. I now fly for an organization called Pilot-N-Paws. It's a non-profilt organization that rescues animals.

 


Susan Crane

Susan Crane had one grandmother who knitted and one who sewed, and grew up doing both.  She started a knitting shop but soon realized that while sales was not her thing – she was good at problem solving and doing custom work.  While at her shop she designed children’s sweaters and custom wrote patterns for clients.

After that she started sewing for friends and got recommendations from friends and thus a sewing business was born, that was over 15 years ago.  Claire Shaeffer’s book “Couture Sewing Techniques” was probably the biggest influence in the type of sewing that she enjoys doing.  As soon as she read it she realized that that was the type of sewing the she wanted to do...

That was the past and brings us up to the present. The present is as Charles Dickens said, “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times”. The worst of times is obviously the recession and down turn in business. The best of times is that she now has the time to explore other things. She started writing for Threads, she loves writing. Besides writing for Threads she has had her work featured in Claire Shaeffer’s book, “Fabric Sewing Guide”. She also won the 2006 Threads PACC challenge for the LBD, and the 2012 Threads ASDP challenge on Lace Garments.

For the future; she wants to design and sell a limited collection on the internet. She also has started a book on sewing with lace.

 

Susan Khalje

Susan KhaljeSusan Khalje had not originally envisioned a career in couture sewing. Instead, her choice was between her two great loves: languages and music. She chose the later, attend a music conservatory, and worked as a classical pianist in London for many years.

She returned to New York and received her professional training at the couture salon Chez Cez et Bez. Given her background, it made sense to focus her own custom business on bridal couture. After 25 years, she moved away from sewing to concentrate on writing and teaching couture techniques.

She is the author of Bridal Couture (Krause Publications) and Linen and Cotton (Taunton Press), and her long-running HGTV/DIY show, Sew Much More, focused on a variety of sewing techniques. In addition to shorter offerings, Susan teaches 6-day seminars on couture sewing, and each year she takes a small group to Paris for a behind-the-scenes exploration of the world of couture. She is a Threads Magazine Contributing Editor, and currently teaches the Couture Dress Class on Craftsy.com. She is also developing her own on-line classes.

Susan is a charter member and former chairperson of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals (formerly known as The Professional Association of Custom Clothiers) and received, in 2005, the organization’s Lifetime Achievement Award.

 

Claire Shaeffer

Claire ShaefferAn acrobat in her youth, Claire enrolled in the circus curriculum at Florida State University but left with a MRS degree. Though quite thin, she had developed broad shoulders through acrobatics — a factor that ultimately steered her life in another direction. Finding it difficult to find clothes that fit, she turned to sewing her own wardrobe, but wanted more than commercial patterns offered. “I went back to school to learn how to make my own patterns,” she says. She studied couture techniques, developed a passion for fashion, and ultimately amassed an impressive collection of designer clothes. Later she returned to school and graduated with an art history degree so she could teach at the college level.

Claire is the author of the popular “Couture Sewing Techniques” and many other books that you should check out. She is a frequent contributor to Threads magazine, as well as Vogue Pattern Magazine and teaches two couture workshops a year in her hometown Palm Springs.

Claire’s motto is “I demystify couture”. In fact, she confides almost proudly that she is not allowed to visit Chanel’s Paris workrooms to observe the petite mains (little hands) at their tasks. “I’m on their bad list,” she says. “I have written them twice, but they have made it very clear that they do not want me to write about the Chanel designs.” She has, however, gained entry into many other haute couture house in Paris. Forever secretive about its methods, Chanel even denies ever having granted authorized copies. [Several books now include this info.]

Claire continues to make her own clothes and has designed more than a dozen patterns for Vogue Patterns, often with a nod to Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent. From her intensive studies of their work, she says, “So much of what I’ve learned is not new techniques, but how to apply techniques I already knew — taking one application and adapting it to a new case. Most things are not difficult, but they are time-consuming.”

Claire passes along the knowledge she has gained through her personal studies, “It’s very rewarding to see people improve their skills and expand their knowledge,” she says. “There is no place else to go to learn these things.”

The ASDP Workshop in Novi–Chanel and that Jacket Class –is no longer accepting registration. Claire teaches a 5-day workshop In Palm Springs.

Claire recently received the ASG Hall of Fame Award. I’m the only person to have received both the PACC Lifetime Achievement Award and the Asg award.

 

Leslie Littell

Leslie LittellLeslie Littell (Costume Specialist, is the owner of Ashbridge Costume Studio, a private studio offering full costume design services. Currently, her studio focuses on historic pattern development. She is a member of the Costume Society of America, and the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals.

As a Costume Specialist, she earned a BS in Design from the University of Cincinnati and worked in the NY garment industry before obtaining an MA in History from Rutgers University. Leslie has been on the faculty at Oakland University’s Department of Music, Theatre & Dance (Michigan) since 2002 and has worked and taught previously at Wayne State University (MI) and Montclair State University (NJ) in similar capacity.

Leslie has over 100 costume design credits for theatre and dance productions from New York to Colorado, including serving as the principal Costumer for Eisenhower Dance Ensemble in Michigan for ten years. She has presented at national and international conferences on teaching and creative process. Her favorite part of theatre is the rich relationships that come from collaboration. Her favorite part of design is the problem solving process.

 

 

Joyce Simons Murphy

Joyce Simons MurphyJoyce Simons Murphy (JSM) has degrees in apparel design and education plus 20 years of experience running a tailors shop, altering clothes, constructing garments and selling men's made-to-measure suits. As owner of JSM Tailors, Joyce saw a need for new tools to make tailoring easier. In response to this need, Joyce developed the JSM Hourly Rate Calculator, the Pricing Alterations Made Easier system, and the JSM Pants for Women system. As owner of JSM Tailoring Tools, Joyce writes for Threads magazine, trains sewing enthusiasts everywhere in the use of her professional tailoring tools and continues to develop new tools designed to save fitting time, time making and adjusting patterns and time spent on business tasks thus giving more time to design and construct custom clothing.

We are extremely pleased to have Joyce as one of our Master Class instructors for our "Be a Part of it All" 2012 Educational Conference in Novi, Michigan. She is offering a "Menswear Tailored Alterations for Dressmakers" course for two days before conference which is a topic requested by our membership. The first day will address trouser alterations including machine and hand hemming, adjusting the seat and stride, and replacing a fly-front zipper. Day 2 will include such jacket alterations as shortening vented cuffs and the collar, taking in the sides and narrowing the shoulders. Take advantage of Joyce's years of experience and sign up early! More information on Joyce's class is available in the conference brochure.

 

Juliette Kimes

Juliette KimesJuliette Kimes comes from a long line of sewing professionals, including a great-grandmother who sewed for the Queen of England before immigrating to the US, so it is only natural that she was wielding aneedle and thread by the age of four.

She graduated to a sewing machine by seven and startedmaking her own clothes at 12. After earning a Bachelor of Science in Textiles and Clothing from the University of California at Davis, she worked in the childrenswear industry in the San Francisco area. Now earning her living intechnology, Juliette continues to sew for herself and select clients. Her specialty is custom formalwear and bridal alterations, but she also enjoys working with machine embroidery, dyeing and has developed an obsession with making the perfect collared shirt over the years. She began teaching at her local Bernina dealer in 2010.

Juliette has been a member of ASDP since 2005, was a finalist in “Inspired by Threads” in 2004 and 2005, and a finalist in the Threads “Suit Your Style” Challenge in 2010.

 

Helen Haughey, Helen Haughey Designs

Helen HaugheyHelen Haughey currently resides in St. Louis, Missouri but her clientele is spread throughout the United States. She began her sewing career at a very young age in New Zealand and initially sewed for herself and her family. As Helen recognized the opportunity to assist women within the community to find a truer, better fit, she expanded her business to clients at large. Helen has a broad repertoire:

 - Bridal, including bridesmaid & Mother
 - Gala including debutante
 - Tailored Day Wear

Her skill set has been honed over time to use couture techniques.

Current Classes:
 - Advanced Sewing
 - Little Sheath Dress
 - Children “learn to sew”

Helen belongs to the Haute Couture Society of Chicago and has House of Haughey published in St. Louis Magazine.

As Vice President of Conference Planning, Helen is excited about the new conference format this year, and hopes every ASDP member will consider attending!

 

Kathy Levy, The Sewing Room, Colonie, NY

Kathy Levy Kathy Levy became frustrated and unsatisfied after working many years as a medical secretary. She needed to do something else with her life. A friend asked why she didn’t do what she loved and did well – sew. That began a series of sewing related jobs which helped her gain the skills and experiences she needed to start an alteration business in her home. She did alterations for a dry cleaner, decorated costumes for a dance studio, became production manager for a college sportswear store sewing lettering and art work on garments and made samples for a children’s clothing boutique.

Early in her business, Kathy took on any work she could find, including several independent contracting jobs, to boost her income. Many of the jobs were tedious and uncreative. Eventually she was able to limit her work to alterations. Although she does basic alterations, bridal alterations have become her specialty. She finds great satisfaction working with the difficult to fit client, making her look and feel beautiful for her wedding day. Over the years Kathy has found her true passion to be making Christening gowns, in particular, creating them from the wedding dress of the baby’s mother or grandmother.

In 1999 Kathy took an active part in the development of the newly formed Albany Chapter of the American Sewing Guild. She served 7 years on the Chapter Advisory Board, 4 of them as Chapter President. In 2001 she joined PACC, but did not take an active role in the organization. In 2005, while attending an alteration class given by a PACC member, she learned more about what the organization had to offer and she became a more active member. ASDP Conferences have provided her with valuable education, great networking and many friendships. This year’s (2012) conference in Novi will be her 8th. The association is fortunate that Kathy answered the call to serve on the board; she is currently the ASDP Treasurer.

 

Rachel Kurland

Rachel KurlandRachel Kurland, brings a wealth of experience to the governing board of the Association. Currently residing in rural Vermont, Rachel designs and constructs custom bridal gowns under the label Foxglove Custom Bridal Gowns, but her eclectic resume includes an MFA in costume design from Brandeis University, managing UC-Santa Barbara’s costume shop, work for a bridal designer, an armorer, and costume shops in New York city, teaching costume history and construction at Windham College (now defunct) in Putney, VT, wardrobe work for Jerry Lewis and John Raitt, and curating a costume collection for a historical society in Woodstock, Vermont. Between designing regional theatre shows Rachel also constructs insulated window quilts, builds mascots, tailors women’s suits, and occasionally does alterations.

Located in a small town, Rachel soon came to appreciate ASDP. Attending the Association’s annual conferences showed her how involvement with ASDP connected her to other people across the country earning a living doing what she does. Rachel states, “The generosity of ASDP members always impresses me. We share contacts, sources, techniques, accomplishments, and failures. The discuss list has helped me more times than I can count. Now that I’m travelling less for work, I feel I have more flexible time to give back to ASDP.“

Having a background with dozens of classes covering obscure techniques, Rachel cherishes the most exquisitely tailored vest she has ever seen, made by her paternal grandfather (a Boston tailor) with buttonholes hand-worked by her grandmother. ASDP is grateful to have Rachel begin her two-year term as VP-Communications on January 1, 2012.

 

Brenda Breitenmoser

The MSDP Certification Program is pleased to announce we have our first MSDP recipient - Brenda Breitenmoser of Agassiz, British Columbia! Brenda has demonstrated mastery in all seven areas of required expertise and has now earned the right to use Master Sewing and Design Professional in all of her business promotions. Brenda was presented with her certificate and a bouquet of seven roses (one for each module) at the recent Members Banquet at the national conference in Portland, Oregon. It is anticipated that Brenda will soon be joined by more certified recipients.

Brenda has had a sewing related business since 1985 and works mainly from her home. Her sewing experience includes working for Trautmann Furs and later for Silk and White Satin bridal shop doing alterations and sales. She is now working on her own doing alterations and custom sewing with a focus on custom wedding gowns.

Joining ASDP in 2006, Brenda has been the secretary of the Association for the past 2 years, and at our recent annual meeting was re-elected to this position for another two-year term. In addition, Brenda is working hard to start a chapter in British Columbia.

For more information on the Master Certification program, click here or email Linda Macke, VP Certificate Program at [email protected]

Photo Description: Brenda Breitenmoser, center, receiving her MSDP certificate from Linda Macke (left), ASDP VP Certificate Program, and Catherine Stephenson, Chairperson, MSDP Board.

Photo Credit: Charles Islander

 

Teresa Nieswaag

Teresa NieswaagTeresa Nieswaag has been sewing since eighth grade Home Economics. She started her business in 2001, working at a Husqvarna Viking dealership. The manager nudged her into teaching, something she would never have considered on her own. As a certified Square-in-a-Square quilt instructor for Jodi Barrows, Teresa has been a vendor at quilt shows in four states. Teresa now focuses her business more on custom sewing, embroidery and alterations.

In 2001 a garment that she made and embroidered won "Best Use of Color" in the Stitches Magazine Embroidery Challenge which traveled with the Original Sewing and Quilt Expo that year. Teresa joined ASDP in 2006 and has served as a Regional Directory for Region 4 until structural reorganization discontinued these positions. She helped with scheduling volunteers for the 2008 conference in Chicago. MSDP (Master of Sewing and Design) also used her skills as a secretary.

Upon accepting her nomination for President-Elect, Teresa stated "One great way to truly understand an organization is to become involved, and I hope to influence more members to do this also. Asdp is a wonderful networking organization with highly knowledgeable and skilled members. In learning from each other and working together I hope we will continue to see ASDP grow and evolve into an even more dynamic organization." Teresa feels a strong sense of responsibility to ASDP and its members, and is honored to have been elected President-Elect at the  2011 Annual Meeting. After serving one year in this capacity, she will take over as President in January, 2013.

 

 

Debbie Utberg

Debbie Utberg
Photo credit:Amy Close-Pepe

Debra Dianne (Debbie) Utberg's professional sewing career began in 1977 when she was asked to sew a wedding gown and discovered the value of her sewing skills to others. For many years, her business was an intermittent, parttime entity.

In 1990, after her children were older, she began marketing her business, "Utberg Custom Clothiers" more extensively. During this period, she took several Master Classes offered at conferences and by various master teachers.

In 2005, Debbie moved her business out of her home into a commercial location close to downtown Portland, OR. While at this location, she attended the Baltimore conference and developed the following "pitch":
Because shopping for clothing can be frustrating and even depressing when your body is not standard, or the current styles do not flatter you, or you just want something uniquely made for you,...we design and create custom clothing that draws upon your personal style and enhances your unique proportions, ...so that you can experience the feel of superb fit and the confidence that comes from knowing you look great. And that pretty much describes her business focus!

Since her first move, she has had to move two more times. Currently, her studio is about six minutes from home.When asked about inspiration, Debbie replies "The creative process is interesting. It begins with imagination and seeing a need or an opportunity to create beauty and perhaps even confidence. Then there comes the question of 'how can I make this happen?' In the quest to 'make it happen' inspiration comes."

One source of inspiration has been the ASDP's annual conferences. The conferences are like an "in-gathering" of artists, technicians and entrepreneurs. Imagine Coco Chanel visiting with the artists and writers of her day in her Paris home. The conversations, "flushing out" of ideas, sharing and debating the topic "du jour". So when the Oregon chapter learned that the conference was to be in Portland, agreeing to organize the member showcase was a natural.


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Angela Wolf is the anchor of the PBS series It’s Sew Easy, Author of How to Start a Home-based Fashion Design Business, founder of Angela Wolf Pattern CollectionTM, hosts a Facebook live show Behind the Scenes, and YouTube series Entrepreneur Insight. She is a frequent contributor to both Threads and SewStylish magazines, blogger, and brand ambassador for Brother International and Daylight Company. Angela has been a member of ASDP since 2008, a board member for MSDP, and brand ambassador for Brother International and Daylight Company.

 

Angela started sewing at a young age and continued to design women’s apparel all through college. With an entrepreneurial spirit and passion for fashion and sewing, she launched and ran a successful custom apparel and alteration business for over 18 years.  With the success of It’s Sew Easy tv, Angela changed her business focus toward the home sewer and now spends much of her time consulting, speaking, and teaching all over the country.  She is the winner of 2008 Passion for Fashion, 2012 American Sewing Expo’s teacher of year, and in 2016 received the Outstanding Industry Contribution award.  When she is not sewing, you will find her fishing on Lake Michigan or in the Florida Keys with her husband Winn, on the Win-n-Angel!

 

“I have been a member of ASDP since 2008 and find this group to be such an asset. I would recommend to anyone able to attend a conference, GO! After attending the annual conference in Illinois 2 years in a row, it was amazing to connect with fellow designers, patternmakers, and sewing experts. Not only do you leave the conference with new friends, you have had the opportunity to polish your skills and discuss business with others in the same field.  The best part is that you leave with a renewed energy and increased confidence to run and grow your business! Thanks ASDP for everything you offer!”

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