Your budget. Custom clothing is just that--custom--and prices reflect the expertise of the seamstress, excellent construction and perfect fit. Remember that your custom garment will not have to be altered; it will be the color, style and fit that flatters you best.

Association of Sewing and Design Professionals members may require a deposit when an agreement is reached and release the garment when the final invoice and all materials are paid in full. Most dressmakers work with a formal contract; read it carefully.

Your chosen sewing professional can make suggestions about fabric and styles to help you realize the outfit of your dreams and stay within your budget.

The price of alterations often surprises people. The cost of the garment has nothing to do with the cost of the alteration. It takes just as much time to shorten a $99 dress from a discount store as it does to shorten a similarly styled $4,000 dress from a pricy boutique. Many apparently simple alterations are complex. If you want the ‘80s shoulder pads removed from a jacket you otherwise love, the alteration may involve reconstructing the garment sleeve and the shoulder area of the jacket. Ask questions.

At the first meeting, have available:

• Your time schedule

• Photos, sketches or a picture of a commercial pattern
• If she plans to take measurements at this session, wear the exact undergarments you will be wearing with the outfit you are having made. This includes bras, waist cinchers and hosiery. Wear the same garments for each fitting. Wear shoes that are the approximate heel height of those you will wear with the garment.
• The consultation should be a time when you are relaxed and can concentrate o­n the project you have in mind. You should either come alone or ask in advance if you may bring o­ne other person.
• Listen to your dressmaker’s advice. Sometimes the gown of your dreams will turn out to be a nightmare if the fabric and style choices are not right for you.

Fittings

• If you must cancel a fitting, give the sewing pro at least a full day’s notice. (If she needs to change an appointment, she will do the same for you.)
• Realize that if you change your mind about design elements after the garment is in progress, that there may be additional charges. Be honest and specific about your opinions during fittings.
• Dressmakers are not mind readers.
• Raise questions about fit or the quality of work as soon as something concerns you. Be open with your sewing professional.